Norwegian–English knitting dictionary

The words you meet in Norwegian knitting patterns, from A to Å. Each Norwegian word is followed by the English term and a short explanation. Use it as a reference when you get stuck in a pattern, or read it from A to Å if you like that sort of thing.

A · B · D · E · F · G · H · I · J · K · L · M · N · O · P · Q · R · S · T · U · V · W · Ø · Å

A

Alpakkaull — alpaca wool – A natural fibre used to make textiles. It comes from the alpaca, a member of the camel family. The wool is soft, warm and lustrous, but not strong. It has little crimp and no scales, so it is considered less itchy than other yarns. The yarn has little bounce and a fine, thin fibre, so the garment can easily sag. Alpaca can also shed and pill, and the fibre is normally not very strong. Alpaca yarn has no lanolin.

B

Brioche — brioche – In the basic brioche method you knit with two colours. Each round is worked twice, first in the main colour, then a round in the background colour.

Beregne tråd for å legge opp — measuring the tail for a cast-on – Wind the yarn round the needle as many times as the number of stitches you are casting on, and add 10 cm of yarn to hold on to.

Broderi — embroidery – Often hand-worked stitches in different sizes and variations that make decorative patterns. See video.

Broderigarn — embroidery thread – Stranded cotton, neatly spun from several fine cotton threads, often in a large range of colours. Because it is so fine it does not shed or splay. The thread is soft and thin (easy to thread through a large needle), but still hard-wearing. It is far too thin to knit with, and perfect for embroidery.

Badedraktgarn — swimwear yarn – A fine worsted wool yarn with good colour fastness in light and water.

Boblestrikk — bubble stitch – Gives a 3D effect. You knit a stitch a set number of rows down into the rows below. Then you drop the same number of stitches back up. Then you work, for example, plain knit for a certain number of rows before repeating the steps above. Decorative bubbles build up as you go.

Bomullsgarn — cotton yarn – Yarn spun from cotton fibres.

Bouclé — bouclé – A type of novelty yarn made of evenly sized loops of thread.

Bølgestrikk — wave stitch – Knitting that forms waves using different methods. There are several ways and methods to knit waves.

D

Doble kast — double yarnover – Often used in lace knitting, and gives a bigger hole than a single yarnover. For example 1 double yarnover between two stitches: work the next purl row by purling the first stitch, then drop the second stitch.

E

Effektgarn — novelty yarn – A term for yarn with special properties or colour effects, such as loops, fur, metallic thread, reflective thread and more. Bouclé is a type of novelty yarn made of evenly sized loops of thread.

Entrådsgarn — single-ply yarn – Yarn spun into one single strand. Tightly spun single-ply yarn is not recommended for garments knitted on a circular needle, because the garment may «pull» and end up skewed. To avoid this, hold another yarn together with it.

Elastisk opplegg — stretchy cast-on – Gives a super stretchy cast-on edge.

F

Felle av masker — bind off – Usually means finishing a knitting project by closing the stitches into an edge. This can be done in several ways, but here is the most common: knit two stitches, then pass the first stitch over the next one. Continue until one stitch is left on the needle. Cut the yarn, then pull the loop so the yarn comes through.

Flettestrikk — cables – Usually two equal parts of the knitting that cross over each other every other time and form decorative cables. There are many ways to knit cables.

Fløyelsbånd — velvet ribbon – Ribbon made of velvet. It is usually bought by the metre in sewing shops or online, and used to decorate textiles.

Følgetråd — carry-along yarn – A yarn (often fine) that you knit together with your main yarn. By far the best known carry-along yarn on the Norwegian market is a very fine, fluffy mohair with silk. This is the kind of yarn you see in the most popular patterns.

G

Garnlengde — yarn length (yardage) – The length the manufacturer has calculated for their yarn.

Garntykkelse — yarn weight – A pattern is usually written for a specific yarn of a specific thickness. So that the pattern works out in size and yarn amount, the gauge is given. To avoid recalculating the pattern, it is always a good idea to use a yarn of the same thickness as the one in the pattern. I also recommend knitting a gauge swatch to make sure your gauge is the same as the one given in the pattern. Then you know the garment will match the measurements given in the pattern.

Glattstrikk — stockinette – Also called rettstrikk. It is the most common way to knit, and gives an even, smooth surface. If you knit back and forth and want a completely smooth surface, knit one way and purl back.

H

Helpatent — full brioche (fisherman's rib) – Gives a thick, airy rib that looks the same on the wrong side and the right side. In full brioche you knit back and forth with an odd number of stitches on the needle.

Hekle — crochet – A handcraft technique where you make fabric with yarn or thread and a crochet hook with a hook at one end.

Heklenål — crochet hook – A long stick with a hook at the end, which lets you pull yarn from one stitch to another, or between the stitches. Comes in wood, plastic and metal, and in different sizes.

Husflidsgarn — craft yarn – Yarn sold on the private market.

Håndspinning — hand spinning – Done with a simple tool, a drop spindle. The spindle is a weight, like a stone, with a stick and a hook. The weight is set spinning while the fibres are fed into the yarn, which gets longer and longer and is pulled down towards the floor. Then the yarn is wound onto the stick and the process is repeated.

Hullstrikk — lace knitting – Knitting where small holes are made in the garment. See video.

Halvpatent strikk — half brioche – Knitting where you knit a knit stitch into the knit stitch below, every other round. This makes a clear sideways V at the side of the knit stitch. See video.

Halvkamgarn — semi-worsted yarn – A form between the two main types of wool yarn. It is made by stretching the carded yarn before spinning.

Hvordan strikke en genser lengre — how to make a sweater longer – Separate the sweater at the ribbing by cutting one stitch. Then pull the yarn out of the stitches in the same round. This is especially useful with yarns that are hard to rip back afterwards. Ribbing in a mohair yarn, for example, can be hard to rip back. Then pick up all the stitches on the right needle size, and knit the missing length onto the garment. If it is hard to get the stitches onto the needle, change to a smaller needle size. Then knit the garment onto the right size, so the stitches do not look uneven on the garment.

I

Industrigarn — industrial yarn – Used for industrial production in knitwear factories and weaving mills.

Italiensk opplegg — Italian cast-on – Gives a super stretchy cast-on that does not pull in. Perfect for hats, socks and trouser legs, and for premature baby clothes. The stitches look as if they simply disappear on the back. First you cast on, then you knit one row and then one round to establish this cast-on.

Italiensk felling — Italian bind-off – A stretchy bind-off for 1x1 rib (knit 1, purl 1). The stitches are sewn off with a darning needle instead of bound off with the knitting needle, so the edge is rounded and stretchy, like a continuation of the ribbing. Good for neck edges and the ribbing at the bottom. See stretchy bind-off.

I - Cord - kant — i-cord edge – A cord-like edge on knitting, worked and bound off like this: * Knit 2 stitches, knit the next 2 stitches together through the back loop. Slip the 3 stitches from the right needle back onto the left needle (in the same order) *, repeat from *-* until all stitches on the left needle are bound off and 3 stitches remain on the right needle.

J

Jumperpinne — straight needle – At one end you can take new stitches onto the needle. At the other end there is often a small knob that stops the stitches from falling off. These needles are always used in pairs, and are used to knit back and forth.

K

Kast — yarnover – You make a yarnover by laying the yarn over and around the needle, bringing it from under the right needle and over the top, so a new stitch forms on the needle. This makes a hole that can be used, for example, as a buttonhole.

Kardegarn — carded yarn – A yarn that is only carded, not combed. The fibres do not lie parallel, and there are often both short and long fibres in the yarn. The yarn is light, airy and much used. It gives clear, clean patterns in two-colour knitting, and was more common in the past.

Kantmaske — edge stitch – Normally not part of the pattern. It is the outermost stitch on each side of the work. There are several ways to knit this stitch. The most common is to knit it on the right side and purl it on the wrong side, so the edge stitch looks like a knit stitch. This is often used on garments in thick yarn. You can also use a slipped edge stitch, where the first stitch is not knitted, only lifted onto the other needle, or a rounded edge. A rounded edge is used most often where pieces are sewn together at the end.

Kamgarn — worsted yarn – Combed before spinning. The fibres lie as parallel as possible. Worsted yarn is heavy, smooth and strong, and gives clear, well-defined stitches.

Kjedemaske — slipped edge stitch (in knitting) – Means the first stitch is lifted off onto the other needle without being knitted, to give the neatest result.

Kjedemaske — slip stitch (in crochet) – Work a slip stitch by putting the crochet hook through the stitch, catching the yarn with the hook, and pulling the yarn through both the stitch and the original loop.

Km — sl st – The abbreviation km in a pattern means kjedemaske (slip stitch).

Knappenål — pin – Small thin pins with a ball at one end. They hold two pieces of fabric together, for example when you sew up a garment.

Knapphull — buttonhole – The hole the button is pulled through. A buttonhole can be made with a yarnover, for example.

Kryssopplegg — long-tail cast-on – This is the most common way to cast on. Note that the right side faces you when you cast on, so the first row has to be purled.

Here is how: make the first stitch by making a loop and putting it on the needle. Remember to work out the right length of yarn, see Beregne tråd for å legge opp (measuring the tail for a cast-on) under B.

L

Lengde — length – The measurement taken on the garment from the neck down, to describe how long the garment is.

Linning — waistband – The upper waist part and folded edge on trousers or a skirt.

LLS — ssk (slip, slip, knit) – A decrease technique made of 2 slips and 1 knit (slip, slip, knit). Slip 2 stitches one at a time as if to knit, put both stitches back on the left needle, and knit the two stitches together through the back loop.

M

Maskesting — duplicate stitch / grafting – Sewing that forms new stitches, often used to join two pieces. Here is how: lay the pieces edge to edge. Bring the yarn up from below through the top stitch (so the needle points up). Then take it straight down into the middle of the stitch below, and then sideways straight into the stitch next to it, so the yarn comes out in the middle of the stitch. See the illustration below.

Masketabeller — stitch tables – Ready-made tables that give you the number of stitches in a piece of knitting based on, for example, gauge. Use them to work out your own designs and get the right size.

Merinoull — merino wool – Comes from the merino sheep. This wool is especially soft and fine, and suits baby knits particularly well. Merino is often used in blends to make them softer.

Maske sammen masker — grafting stitches together – Here you sew in a way that forms stitches. Here is how: lay the pieces edge to edge. Bring the yarn up through the top stitch, then into the stitch below and sideways straight into the stitch next to it, so the yarn comes out in the middle of the stitch.

Mohair — mohair – Wool from the angora goat, with long, slightly crimped fibres and a beautiful silk-like sheen. Mohair has strong fibres that make the garment light and warm. Mohair can be brushed up again after washing, and works for most knitted garments.

Møll — moths – A collective name for smaller, dusk-flying and inconspicuous species of butterfly. Moths are also a pest that spreads easily in the house. They prefer dirty fabrics and textiles and eat holes in them. Lavender is the moth's kryptonite, and a small bag of lavender can keep moths away from your knitwear. I recommend packing knitwear you are not using in plastic, to keep the moths away.

N

Nupper — pills (pilling) – Pills on clothes can come from the fabric itself. On new garments it can be surplus fibres that disappear over time. Pills can also come from repeated movement, or where different textiles, for example natural and synthetic, touch each other.

O

Opplegg — cast-on – The very first stitches cast on to the knitting needle.

P

Patentstrikk — brioche / fisherman's rib – A knitting technique where you knit with double stitches to get clear, thick ribs.

Perlestrikk — seed stitch (moss stitch) – Knitting where one round is usually worked in alternate knit and purl stitches. Round 2 is worked so a purl stitch sits over the knit stitch, and a knit stitch sits over the purl stitch. Repeat every other round. Seed stitch can also be worked in other combinations, for example double seed stitch.

Pinner — knitting needles – Tools used for hand knitting. They can be made of different materials such as metal, plastic and bamboo, and come in different sizes. In Norway knitting needles are sized by diameter in millimetres. Several other numbering systems exist.

Pinnestrørrelse — needle size – In Norway all knitting needles are sized by diameter in millimetres. The recommended needle size is usually given both on the yarn and in the knitting pattern.

Provisorisk opplegg — provisional cast-on – Lets you go back and pick up the stitches again, and adjust the stitch count to the perfect size after the garment is finished.
See video.

Provisorisk opplegg på to pinner — provisional cast-on on two needles – Magic loop. This method works well where you knit double in the round. It is perfect where you would normally use double-pointed needles (sleeves, socks and mittens). See video.

Prydvevgarn — decorative weaving yarn – Made in a rich range of colours, hard twisted and with a high sheen.

Presse — pressing – Means evening out unevenness in the garment by laying it flat and pressing gently on low heat over a damp tea towel.

Popkorn — popcorn stitch / bobble – Knitted balls that stand out decoratively from the garment. See video.

Pufferme — puff sleeve – A sleeve with extra width, often at the top of the sleeve, which creates gathers and a raised sleeve head.

Q

Quilte — quilting – means sewing stitches through several layers of fabric lying on top of each other, to form the pattern you want.

R

Rageland — raglan – Knitting the body and sleeves together in a diagonal line towards the neck. There are many different techniques for this. See video:

Rettmaske — knit stitch – The most common stitch. It is worked from the front: the needle goes in, catches the yarn and comes out again.

Rettpinne — straight needle – Knitting needles that are longer than double-pointed needles, and pointed at one end only.

Rettsiden — right side – The side opposite the purl back of the knitting. The right side is usually the smooth side that faces out.

Rett eller vrangsiden ? — right side or wrong side? Not sure if you are on the right side or the wrong side? If you started with a knit row, the yarn will usually hang on the right-hand side.

Rillestrikk — garter stitch – Knitting where ridges of purl form in the knit fabric. You can do this by alternating knit and purl rows.

Ribbestrikk — rib stitch – Knitting where you usually work alternate knit and purl stitches stacked over each other on every round.

Ribbekant — ribbed edge – An edge made of knit and purl stitches.

Rundpinne — circular needle – Two knitting needles joined by a flexible cable in the middle. Comes in different sizes, lengths and materials, such as bamboo, metal and plastic.

Rund kant — rounded edge – Used where the pieces are sewn together later. Here is how: slip the first stitch purlwise on the knit row. Slip the first stitch knitwise on the purl row.

S

Samstrikk av erme og bole — joining sleeves and body (yoke) – Knitting where the sleeves are knitted onto the body. See video.

Settpinne — straight needle – Longer than double-pointed needles, and pointed at one end only. Use them to knit flat pieces, back and forth.

Seilgarn — sail twine – Hemp used to repair sails and other boat gear.

Silkegarn — silk yarn – A moisture-absorbing, natural yarn made from silkworms. Silk fibres are completely smooth, which makes silk yarn extremely soft and comfortable. Silk can absorb up to 30 % of its own weight. Silk yarn gives a shiny, soft finish. The yarn also has a high breaking strength, which makes the yarn and the garment extra strong. The yarn does not tolerate much direct light, so the garment can easily fade.

Stoppegarn — darning yarn – A fine, hard-wearing yarn, made in small batches, often in a rich range of colours.

Sokkegarn — sock yarn – A strong wool yarn, often reinforced with hair or coarse outer wool (ragg), goat hair yarn. That is where the Norwegian name raggsokk comes from.

Stopping — darning – Knitted socks and stockings often wear in shoes, especially at the heels. To darn, you put a mushroom-shaped tool inside, so the area around the darn keeps its shape. Then you thread yarn in the same colour as the sock in a dense network that gradually closes the hole.

Stoppenål — darning needle – A sturdy needle with a large eye and usually a blunt tip. It can be short or long, and comes in different sizes. It can also have a bend at the tip, to make it easier to pick up the threads you darn into.

Stoppesopp — darning mushroom – A wooden shape that looks like a mushroom. You put it under the hole you are darning.

Strikkegarn — knitting yarn – Not spun very tightly, which makes the yarn soft and nice.

Strikke 2 pinner ? — casting on over two needles – Means casting on with two needles held together. It is the most common way to cast on so the cast-on edge does not get too tight. If you find this fiddly, use needles one size larger than the ones you knit with instead.

Strømpepinner — double-pointed needles (DPNs) – Sets of shorter needles (often 5), used to knit smaller items such as stockings and hats.

Strukturstrikk — textured knitting – Different combinations of knit and purl stitches that form different textures in the garment.

Strikkefasthet — gauge – I recommend knitting a gauge swatch to make sure your gauge is the same as the one given in the pattern. Then you know the garment will match the measurements given in the pattern.

T

Tråkle — baste (tack) – Sewing two pieces together temporarily.

Ta en maske løst av pinnen — slip a stitch – Means lifting the stitch off the needle and onto the other needle without knitting it. This gives an even edge.

U

Utskiftbare rundpinner — interchangeable circular needles – Needles with a matching set of different needle sizes that screw on and off and can be changed as needed.

Ullgarn — wool yarn – One of the oldest and most used yarn types. Wool breathes, keeps you warm, is hard-wearing and water-repellent. Wool is produced almost all over the world.

V

Vaskeanvisning — care instructions – Instructions that tell you what treatment the textile can take.

Vevgarn — weaving yarn – The warp yarn in particular must be even and strong so it does not wear through in the loom.

Vendinger — short rows – Knit to the point where you are going to turn, knit 1 stitch (the turning stitch). Turn the work, and with the yarn in front of you, slip the turning stitch onto the right needle. Then take the yarn over and behind the work, and knit on back.

Vidde — width – The measurement a knitted garment is usually measured by. It is taken straight across one side of the body.

Vrangbrord — ribbing – A stretchy section, often used at the start of a garment and at the neck. Usually worked in a combination of knit and purl stitches repeated directly over each other.

Vri en maske — knit through the back loop (k tbl) – Means knitting the knit stitch from the back instead of from the front, which is the usual way. A twisted stitch gives less stretch in the ribbing, but helps it keep its shape longer.

Vrangside — wrong side – The side opposite the smooth front of the knitting. The right side is usually the side that faces out.

Vridde masker — twisted stitches – Give a neater, tighter look than ordinary knit stitches, and are often used in ribbing.

W

Wool – The English word for ull.

Ø

Øke masker — increase – This can be done in several ways. One way is to knit an extra stitch into the knit stitch. Knit the stitch as usual on the next round.

Å

Å tre — threading – Putting the yarn or thread through the eye of the needle.

Åpent opplegg — open cast-on – Lets you use the stitches from both sides. You can knit both upwards and downwards without picking up stitches from the cast-on edge.

Didn't find the word?

Send me a message, and I will add it. The dictionary grows with the questions I get.

If there is a technique you want to see, not just read about, the videos are in the Knitting School. And the techniques that come up in most of my patterns have their own pages:

Half brioche · Lace pattern · Puff sleeves · Raglan · Cables · Popcorn stitch · Stretchy cast-on

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