Which yarn should I choose?

The yarn decides more than the colour. It decides whether the garment turns out light or heavy, whether it holds its shape, and how warm it is. Here is the difference between the three qualities I use most — and what to do when you want to substitute.

Mohair

Light, airy and full of volume. It gives that characteristic halo around the garment. Perfect for jumpers, boleros and hats that should feel soft and light. Often knitted with two strands, or together with a finer wool.

Alpaca

Warm, soft and hard-wearing. Gives a more matte and more structured result than mohair, and drapes a little more. Good for everyday garments you will wear a lot.

Wool

Elastic and stable. The yarn that holds its shape best over time, and takes the most wear.

In short

• Want a light, airy jumper — choose mohair
• Want a warm, soft everyday jumper — choose alpaca
• Need a garment that holds its shape — choose wool

Why two strands?

Many of my patterns are knitted with two qualities at the same time — often a mohair together with a wool. That gives the right volume, a better fit and a more even look than one strand alone. You then need to work out the yardage for each strand separately, and buy enough of both.

When you want to substitute

You can use other qualities than the ones in the pattern, as long as the gauge matches. A few suggestions:

• Same airy look: mohair together with a fine wool or alpaca
• More structure, less volume: alpaca on its own, or wool on its own
• Softer against the skin: alpaca together with silk or merino wool

Always knit a gauge swatch before you start. The yarn calculator works out how much you need of the new yarn.

Questions I get a lot

Does mohair itch?

Mohair feels light and airy, but it can be a little prickly on sensitive skin. The fibre decides — kid mohair is the softest. Hold a soft strand together with the mohair for a more comfortable garment.

Can I substitute the yarn in the pattern?

Yes. Choose a yarn with a similar yardage and recommended needle size, and check your gauge on a swatch first.

Which is warmest?

Alpaca is the warmest. Wool gives the best elasticity, mohair gives the most volume.

How much yarn do I need?

It is the yardage that decides, not the weight. Work it out here.

Which yarns I use, and where to find them · Care and washing · Needles and gauge · All knitting patterns