Stretchy cast-on

A stretchy cast-on is the first thing you do in 142 of my patterns. It takes two minutes to learn, and it's the difference between a ribbing that gives and one that pinches. Here's what it is and why I use it everywhere.

What a stretchy cast-on is

An ordinary cast-on makes an edge that barely stretches. It looks fine on the needle, but it holds back the moment the garment has to go over a head or around a wrist.

A stretchy cast-on makes an edge that follows the ribbing. It stretches as much as the rest of the knitting, and springs back afterwards.

It sounds like a small thing. It isn't. A tight cast-on edge is the most common reason a finished jumper feels wrong, and it can't be fixed without taking it apart.

Where I use it

Almost everywhere. Every ribbing, every cuff, every neckline, every hat. In practice, most of my patterns start with this one sentence.

The only time I don't, is when the edge is meant to be tight — for instance an edge that has to hold its shape without ribbing.

Two things worth knowing

Allow enough yarn. A stretchy cast-on uses more yarn in the cast-on itself than an ordinary one. Wind the yarn once around the needle per stitch, and add ten centimetres. Run out three stitches short of the target and you have to start again.

If you need even more stretch — on baby knits, or on a neckline that has to go over a big head — you can cast on with a needle one size larger, then go down to the right needle when you start knitting.

The Italian cast-on — its sister

The Italian cast-on gives the same stretch, but with an invisible edge that rolls around the ribbing. It's neater, and it's a bit more work.

On hats and socks it's worth it. On a jumper where the edge hangs down anyway, you rarely notice the difference. I use the stretchy cast-on as standard because it gives 90 per cent of the result for 20 per cent of the effort.

Both are explained in the Knitting ABC.

How to work a stretchy cast-on

I've made a video that shows it. It's in the Knitting School, Part 1.

Knitting School Part 1 also covers an ordinary cast-off and how to use a stitch marker — the two other things you need before you get going.

Want to try it?

When I Need a Friend is free, and starts with a stretchy cast-on. Download it and use it to practise the edge — there's nothing to lose.

If you'd rather start with something smaller, a hat takes an evening. My Favorite Beanie and Black Night – The Beanie both start the same way.

The technique turns up in everything else too: raglan, half brioche, cables, bobbles.

More techniques

Half brioche · Eyelet patterns · Puff sleeves · Raglan · Cables · Bobbles

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